This page covers what's actually documented about Landmark Series — the real named products in the line, the manufacturer-published technology behind it, and how it fits into the broader replacement process below. It's meant to be read before your assessment, not instead of one: the specific product, colors, and current pricing for your roof still get confirmed with a real, licensed installer looking at your actual roof.
Every claim about Landmark Series on this page is attributed to CertainTeed directly or to independent roofing-industry review — never asserted as this site's own independent testing. If a specific technology or rating matters to your decision, confirm the current, exact spec with CertainTeed or your installer before treating it as final. This is the same sourcing standard applied across every product line on this site, regardless of manufacturer.
Named in this line
- Landmark
- Landmark PRO
- Landmark TL
- Landmark Solaris
Real technology in this line
CertainTeed's copper-infused granule technology, which gradually releases copper over time to resist the blue-green algae that causes black streaking -- CertainTeed backs standard Landmark with a 25-year StreakFighter warranty and Landmark PRO with 30 years, per CertainTeed.
Ask "whose warranty" before you ask "how long"
A number of years on a warranty means very little until you know which of two separate things it actually covers. The manufacturer's material warranty only covers a real, tested defect in the shingle itself — it exists no matter who installs it, and it says nothing about whether the installation itself was done right. Some manufacturers reserve their longer, enhanced coverage tiers for certified installers specifically.
The workmanship warranty is entirely separate — it's your contractor's own promise covering mistakes made during installation: a nail that missed the strip, flashing that wasn't sealed correctly, a valley that wasn't lapped right. A manufacturer will not honor a material warranty claim caused by bad installation, and a contractor's workmanship warranty doesn't cover a shingle that failed on its own. Ask for both, in writing, and ask specifically whether the workmanship warranty is transferable if you sell the home — real resale value, not just protection while you own it.
What actually happens during a roof replacement
The sequence doesn't change from one job to the next — what changes is what a specific roof needs at each step, which is exactly what an inspection is for.
Every job starts with someone actually looking at your roof — the deck, the flashing, the attic, the slope — not a number quoted from a satellite photo or a drive-by. A real inspection is the only way to know whether the job is a repair or a full replacement, and it's the foundation the written estimate below is built on.
If the materials, labor, disposal, and any decking allowance aren't broken out separately, there's nothing to actually compare against the final invoice when the job is done — a lump-sum number is a promise, not a record.
The old roofing material comes off down to the deck. Layering new shingles over old is faster and cheaper, but it hides exactly the problems — soft decking, hidden moisture — that a tear-off is the only way to actually find and fix.
With the old roof off, the deck itself gets checked for rot, soft spots, and moisture staining. Any decking that needs replacing is called out and priced separately — not hidden in a change order after the crew is already committed to the job.
Underlayment across the whole deck and flashing at every edge and penetration matter more than the shingles on top, because chimneys, vents, and valleys are where a roof actually fails — not the open field of shingles.
Shingles go down following the manufacturer's own nailing pattern and exposure spec — the difference between a roof that's actually rated for its listed wind speed and one that only looks like it on the invoice.
Nail sweep, debris cleared, gutters checked — a finished job includes a walkthrough before anyone calls it done, not a truck pulling away the moment the last shingle lands.
Manufacturer warranty registration, a written workmanship warranty, and photo documentation aren't formalities — they're what you actually have if something comes up a year or two down the road.
How the pricing itself actually works
A lump-sum roofing quote hides three separate numbers inside one — materials, labor, and margin — with no way for a homeowner to tell which is which. This approach keeps all three visible: the documented real cost of materials and labor, plus a single fixed $100 on top, rather than a percentage that scales up with the size of your job.
With a percentage markup, a more expensive job is automatically a more profitable one for the contractor — the two numbers rise together. A flat-dollar markup breaks that link entirely: $100 on a small roof and $100 on a large one, so the size or complexity of your specific job doesn't change the incentive on the other side of the table.
"Documented" here means the real material invoice and the real labor cost for your specific job — not an internal estimate you're asked to take on faith. You're seeing the same numbers the price is actually built from, not a number that was arrived at somewhere else and presented to you as final.
Rotted or soft decking is one of the most common things a crew finds once the old roof comes off — and exactly the kind of discovery that turns into an unpleasant surprise on a lesser job. Any decking that needs replacing gets called out and priced as its own line item, in writing, before it's touched, not folded quietly into a bigger invoice once the crew is already committed.
What the day of the job actually looks like
Expect real noise and real activity for however long the tear-off and install actually take — a dumpster or debris trailer staged in the driveway, a crew working the roof from early in the day, and old material coming off faster than it looks like it should. Clear the driveway of vehicles beforehand, and keep pets inside; an active jobsite with a ladder and falling debris isn't safe for them to wander.
The areas actually at risk during a tear-off are landscaping, gutters, and anything sitting directly below the roofline — a crew that does this regularly protects those as routine practice, but asking how, specifically, before the job starts costs nothing and sets the expectation up front. A magnetic sweep for stray nails afterward should be included, not billed as an extra.
Permits and code — the part that protects you legally
Florida building code requires a permit for a full roof replacement, filed with the local county or city building department — this isn't paperwork a homeowner should be left to handle alone. That permit means at least one real inspection before the job is signed off, and a properly closed permit is exactly what protects you if a question about the work ever comes up at resale.
Florida's building code sets real, specific requirements for wind resistance and underlayment that didn't exist decades ago — a roof installed to current code is a meaningfully different product than one installed under an older standard, regardless of how similar they look from the ground. Permit and inspection sign-off is what confirms the work actually met that current standard.
What to check before you sign with anyone
A real Florida roofing license is a specific, verifiable number — ask for it directly, and check it yourself against the state's own license lookup rather than trusting a truck door or a business card. Hesitation to provide that number, or a number that doesn't actually check out, is a legitimate reason to stop the conversation before a contract is ever on the table.
After a major storm, out-of-state crews and door-to-door solicitors often move through affected neighborhoods offering fast, cash-only, verbal-quote deals — sometimes with real work behind them, often without a local address, a real license, or any accountability once the truck leaves town. A written estimate and a real, checkable business address are the two simplest filters.
Insurance, and what a contractor can (and can't) do
A roofing contractor's role in an insurance claim is documentation, not adjustment — inspecting the roof, photographing real damage, and preparing a written scope a homeowner can bring to their carrier. Filing, negotiating, and settling the claim itself is the insurance company's process, handled by the homeowner and their carrier or, where used, a licensed public adjuster — a distinction worth understanding before assuming a contractor can "handle the whole claim."
After roofing work is completed, a wind mitigation report documents what's actually there — secondary water resistance, how the deck is attached, the roof-to-wall connection method — for the homeowner's insurer to evaluate on their own terms. Any resulting premium credit is entirely the carrier's underwriting decision; the report itself is documentation handed over, not a guarantee of what an insurance company will do with it.
What actually determines how long a roof lasts
A shingle's stated lifespan on the wrapper is a lab number, not a guarantee for any specific roof — real-world lifespan depends heavily on attic ventilation (poor ventilation bakes shingles from underneath), how many layers were installed, and whether prior repairs were done to the manufacturer's actual spec or just patched to stop a leak. Two roofs with the identical shingle can age at very different rates.
Granule loss in the gutters, shingles that are cupping or curling at the edges, and daylight visible through the roof deck in the attic are the three most reliable signs a roof is past the point where a repair is the honest answer — not a specific age in years, since two roofs of the same age can be in very different condition depending on how they were built and maintained.
What "done" should actually mean
Real photo documentation of the completed work — the bare deck, the underlayment going down, the finished roof — is what actually protects a homeowner if a warranty question comes up down the road, not whatever was said verbally on-site at the time. That documentation should be a standard part of any job, not something a homeowner has to specifically request.
Closing out a roofing job properly means more than the shingles being down: gutters reattached correctly, downspouts left clear, any HVAC or solar equipment put back the way it was found, and a real final walkthrough where the homeowner can flag anything that looks off while the crew is still there — not in a follow-up call after they've left.
What a written estimate should actually itemize
A real written estimate breaks out material cost, labor cost, disposal/dumpster fees, and any permit cost as separate line items — not one lump total a homeowner has no way to check against the final invoice. If a quote can't be broken into those pieces on request, that's worth asking about directly before signing anything.
Beyond price, an honest estimate states a real timeline — a start date, a realistic day-count for the job weather permitting, and when final payment is actually due relative to the completed walkthrough. Vague scheduling language is the same underlying problem as a vague price, just wearing a different outfit.
Questions homeowners actually ask
Is Landmark Series available in Florida?
Availability depends on your specific job and manufacturer supply at the time -- ask during your free assessment and we'll confirm what CertainTeed product is actually available for your roof.
Does Landmark Series cost more than a standard 3-tab shingle?
Generally yes -- architectural shingles like Landmark Series cost more per square than a flat 3-tab, in exchange for the wind rating, warranty, and appearance differences described above.
Does the manufacturer's warranty cover installation mistakes?
No -- CertainTeed's material warranty covers defects in the shingle itself. A separate workmanship warranty from your contractor covers how it was installed (see our glossary's Warranty entry).
How long does Landmark Series actually last in Florida?
Manufacturer warranty length is a starting point, not the real-world number -- Florida's heat, humidity, and storm exposure shorten expected service life compared to milder climates regardless of brand. Installation quality and attic ventilation move the real number more than the shingle line itself.
Can I mix Landmark Series with a different brand's underlayment or ventilation?
You can, but it can affect eligibility for CertainTeed's extended SYSTEM warranty tiers, which typically require matched components from the same manufacturer. Ask during your assessment whether a single-brand system makes sense for your job.
What color options are actually available in Landmark Series?
Color availability changes with manufacturer supply and can vary by region -- ask during your free assessment which Landmark Series colors are currently available for your job rather than relying on a sample shown online.
Is Landmark Series installed differently than a basic 3-tab shingle?
The core steps are the same (see our replacement process below), but architectural shingles like Landmark Series follow their own manufacturer-specified nailing pattern and exposure -- getting that spec right is what actually earns the wind rating on the product label.
Does Landmark Series require a specific underlayment to hit its rated performance?
Manufacturers often specify or recommend compatible underlayment for a product's full rated performance and warranty eligibility -- confirm the specific requirement for Landmark Series during your assessment rather than assuming any underlayment qualifies.
Who actually installs Landmark Series on my roof?
A Florida-licensed, insured crew, working from your written, itemized estimate -- the same licensed crew and process used across every job on this site, not a specialty installer brought in only for this specific product line.
Can I see Landmark Series in person before deciding?
Ask during your assessment about viewing a physical sample or a real installed example -- a screen rendering never fully captures texture and color the way seeing the actual material does.
Does choosing Landmark Series lock me into a specific brand for future repairs?
Not strictly, but matching materials on a future repair (rather than mixing brands or discontinued products) generally gives the most consistent appearance and the clearest warranty picture -- worth knowing when deciding now.
What's the honest, no-sales-pitch summary of Landmark Series?
It's CertainTeed's real architectural product line, with the specific named products and technology documented above -- suited to homeowners weighing that tier's tradeoffs specifically, not a universal recommendation for every roof.